Population Norway: 5.3 million. Average number of people per square km – 13 (India – 380, China – 150, New Zealand – 15).
Seeing the Northern Lights, or aurora borealis, has always been very high on our bucket list. However, the Arctic regions always seemed so far away from us. Whilst looking at a map of Europe whilst enjoying coffee in a cafe in Croatia, we were taken by the relatively short distances between major cities. We were on our way to Ljubljana in Slovenia and we started to talk about Scandinavia and soon the idea of doing a side trip to see the Northern Lights was born. We quickly discovered that Munich was a major European transport hub and the cheapest point for us to fly to Scandinavia. No problem, Munich is only 400km from Ljubljana. A quick check of the long range weather forecast and Aurora activity forecast suggested that we had a fair chance of seeing the Northern Lights. This was all the encouragement we required to buy our tickets and travel hastily to Munich.
The Northern Lights have their best showing in a roughly 900km wide band north of the Arctic Circle. There are thus many places where the Northern Lights can be seen. After a cursory review, we decided to fly to Tromso in Norway. Tromso is a fair sized town with reasonable facilities (airport, car hire, hotels, winter activities).
The flight from Munich to Tromso only took a few hours. Tromso, at this time of the year (early spring), is a winter wonderland with deep snow cover. The town is located 350km above the Arctic Circle. Norway is highly developed and all services are of a high standard, although wallet ravagingly expensive. Roads are kept clear and driving with heavy snow about, is no problem.
We gave ourselves six days to see the Northern Lights. Our first day was totally overcast and snowing. We spent the day relaxing, checking out the town, and getting over the incredibly high cost of living. Most people live in detached homes, which are painted in a range of bright colours. One of the striking buildings in Tromso, is the Arctic Cathedral, constructed about 50 years ago. It is constructed of huge concrete slabs arranged in “A” formation. The one end is covered by a huge coloured glass mosaic.
We had booked a rental car, which we would pick up the following day. Most people book a tour (crazy expensive) to view the Northern Lights, the argument being that the guides know where to go, up to 150 km from Tromso, to view the Lights. This option does not suit our independent spirit. We have found that with a bit of research one can have good success, and added to that, having your own transport means that one can enjoy the scenery and the lights for as long as one wishes, and not be hustled along by a guide herding the group of tourists.
We woke up to brilliant sunshine. This was going to be a good day, as long as the weather held up. As a morning activity, we had arranged to be taken dog sledging. What fun. The company that provided the guides and equipment, have 120 dogs. The dogs are mongrels of mixed blood bred for stamina and strength. Notwithstanding the wolf in the genes of the dog, they have a gentle demeanour and love to be patted and stroked. The dogs love to run and have one idea in mind and that is to run. You need to have your foot firmly on the break if you wish to be stationary. We had six dogs in our team pulling Barbara and I through the snow. It was such fun and too soon our 1 ½ hour trip was over.
In the afternoon we took a drive around the island west of Tromso to check out a couple of locations that we were told should be good for seeing the Northern Lights, given the weather forecast for the evening. The drive along the shore of one of the many fjords was spectacular. The colour of the sea kept changing as the sun was setting. This together with the backdrop of the high, cold and snow covered mountains, was an awesome sight.
By 7pm we were at our view point looking to the north and not quite knowing what to expect. Most bloggers seemed to suggest that one usually only sees the lights for 15 to 30 minutes. A couple of other cars pulled up, including a tour group in a minibus. At first we noticed a whitish wisp ahead of us in the northern sky, which started to intensify after a few minutes. This was it, we had the good fortune of seeing the lights on our first night out. The lights turned out to be a whitish smoke-like object that would slowly intensify and fade in a semi circle across the northern sky. On the photographs, the smoky white substance actually appears green. Of course photographing the northern lights has its own challenges. Night time photography is not a point and shoot operation. Fortunately a very kind local, with heaps of experience, had set up his equipment near to us. He taught us the basics and with some trial and error, we fortunately have our memories captured on reasonable photographs of our own. The lights were on display for hours. We ultimately left at midnight, mainly due to being frozen by the Arctic cold. The tour group on the other hand, was hustled into the minibus after half an hour, so sad. Who knows, they may have gone to some other view site.
Our second night out searching for the Northern Lights was an absolute blast. Based on the weather forecast, we decided to travel some 100km inland. By 10pm the entire sky was lit up with intense swirling smoke-like displays including having purple, reddish and green colours. The lights seemed to dance horizontally, and at times they would seem to drop down vertically from the sky above to the horizon. It was such a special experience and it carried on hour after hour. By 1am we were frozen to the bone and decided that surely we have had enough. What good fortune we have had. On the way back we saw several spectacular displays and simply had to pull over and watch in awe.
Our third night did not match up to the spectacular displays of the previous two nights, but still the lights were faintly visible. We travelled some 150 km east of Tromso to try and find clear skies. The lights flickered on and off faintly from time to time. Interestingly, the camera seems to pick up far more detail than one can see with the naked eye.
All too soon our time in the Arctic came to an end. The Tromso region in Norway hit the sweet spot with us. The colours of the scenery seemed so fantastic and of course, the thick snow has turned the entire area into a winter wonderland. This is a trip very well worthwhile and we have great memories to take home with us.
